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The French Capital by Laura Richardson |
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On March 23, 1648, the Treaty of Concordia established the terms of peaceful co-existence between the French and Dutch settlements of St. Martin/St. Maarten, with the French colonizers maintaining the Northern two-thirds, facing Anguilla, and the Dutch, the southern third. The village of Marigot
appeared towards 1689 on Experiencing rapid growth the first half of the 18th century due to the introduction of sugar cane plantations, the little village became capital to different governors succeeding each other to develop and organize the colony. Batteries of canons and modest fortification guarded access to the port until 1789 when Fort Louis was built. Fort Louis remains the largest historic and only military monument in St. Martin. The plans were sent over directly from Versailles at the order of the ill-fated French King Louis XVI, who soon lost his head in the French Revolution. By the early 1800's
there were 35 to 37 sugar cane plantations on each side of the
island, worked by slaves brought from Africa. In 1848, slavery
was abolished in the French Caribbean islands, and the sugar
industry quickly waned, with the close of the last St. Martin
plantation in 1915. Many of the families
that carried the island's heritage at the turn of the 20th century
still exist today. There are those whose ancestors arrived in
the 1600's, who where charged with building Fort Louis, whose
great-great-great-great grandparents are buried on their old
plantation grounds like Loterie Farm and Golden Grove Estates
in Colombier, Bellevue and St. John's on the outskirts of Marigot. One beautiful woman, now in her seventies, remembers the extraordinary spirit that united all. Her father's legacy includes many of the historic Creole homes in Marigot, Grand Case, French Quarter and Philipsburg. Because of his construction business, a cistern of grand proportions was built to secure water for the mixture of the island's first cement in the early 1920's, which he dug in the heart of Marigot by the now Palais de Justice, adjacent to their seaside home. In the worst of droughts, even this would run dangerously low, while many families had already lost their water reserves, and Marigot's community well had run dry. She recalls, as
a young child over sixty years ago, when she witnessed her mother's
sharing from the giant cistern of their business, its water level
greatly diminished. She was afraid that they The next morning her mother took her by the hand to visit their water supply. "Imagine," her mother taught, "how I would feel today, if I had sent our friend away without water yesterday?" This is the spirit of faith and hope that kept this city alive.
While the 1920's were roaring in the United States, there were no planes for leisure travel. Air flight was just taking wing. It wasn't until the 1950's, after World War II, that St. Martin began to receive visitors by air. Michelette (Mimi)
Fleming remembers her first trip to St. Martin in October 1957
when she arrived from New York with her fiance, Elie Fleming,
to visit his homeland. She remembers a dirt airstrip with a little
house as the airport, and stayed with her best friend and future
Maid of Honor at Little Bay, the island's first modern hotel
which hosted Queen Juliana of the Netherlands on her royal visits. Mimi was 26 years old, working in Wall Street as an interpreter for American Express, when she met Elie Fleming, an honored guest at a concert organized in a popular French club in Manhattan. Son-heir of major property owners on French St. Martin, Elie was also Mayor of Marigot, having succeeded his brother Louis Constant Fleming after his death over ten years earlier. Elie persuaded Mimi to break her engagement with another man and marry him. Upon his return to St. Martin, he wrote to her every day. Since there was no telephone on the French side, he had to travel to Philipsburg to place a rare call, and soon hooked up with one of the first American homeowners, and tycoon, who nightly contacted Mimi for Elie on his secret ham-radio. By the time Mimi arrived in 1958 as Elie's bride, he kept his promise by having the first phone installed on his family's estate, Loterie Farm. Mimi recalls the beauty of the garden with its glorious profusion of color. It was a whole new world for her. She remembers hosting Americans at Loterie Farm who were just arriving to the island. Private planes brought the elite, families of the Fortune 500, including the Fawcetts , Douglas's, and celebrities like Benny Goodman and Harry Belefonte, and Jasper Johns who also made their home here.
International travel and tourism took another thirty years to evolve, until 1985 when the French law of defiscalization gave tax incentives for French citizens and businesses to invest in the islands of the French West Indies, thus making investment more profitable.
The population on the French side jumped from 8,000 in 1980 to 30,000 in 2000 and is now estimated at 37,000. The filling in of part of the bay enabled an extension of Marigot in the late 1970's, creating a larger city with a marina. In the 1980's, the restoration of Fort Louis was undertaken by a small group of civic leaders; cutting through the rough terrain of cactus grown over the centuries. Even the original canons were air-lifted from all over the island by gendarme helicopters and reunited safely overlooking Marigot's harbor. Daily it beckons the curious to climb the mount and every night it glows majestically above the harbor. A similar spirit is driving the restoration of many of the historic Creole homes that can be found concentrated along rue de la Republique, known simply as "The Big Street" for many centuries. Families like the Richardson's, Petites, Flemings and Beauperthuys , whose ancestors were some of the first to arrive on these shores, are fueling the surge to protect and maintain the island's patrimony, whose city of Marigot, now in the 21st century, represents one of the most famous capitals in the French West Indies. Several frequent visitors shared their favorite things to do in Marigot. Their notes recall "strolling down rue de la Republique and stopping for a chocolate at the French chocolatier, Jeff de Bruges; looking at the beautiful Impressionist paintings at the Roland Richardson gallery across the way; photographing the gorgeous French gardens behind the historic houses and ambling up the hill to see Fort Louis. *** Also wonderful on
the weekends is strolling through the open air spice and vegetable
market and stopping for an espresso along the side streets to
rest one's feet." One family wrote, "We love Marigot for its charm, its Caribbean and European influence. The boutiques offer a variety of high end and moderate merchandise. Our favorite stores are Max Mara, Carre Blanc and Christofle. One of our favorite restaurants, Le Chanteclaire, is located on the marina." On a personal note,
twelve years ago, when I was invited to the lovely corner bistro
on Marigot's harbor, famous for it fine cuisine and animated
seating, Many thanks to Cynthie Richardson, Mimi Fleming, Roland Richardson, the " Sur les Traces des Arawaks" Museum in Marigot, the French Office of Tourism, Linda Wellstein, Liz Lynch, Liliana Arrigoni, Randy Jones and Gina Baharani for their special contributions. |
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